A poet’s guide to New Orleans, by Cleo Wade

Unlock the Editor’s Digest for free

Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.

One of my earliest memories is standing in front of a row of Porta Potties at the New Orleans Jazz Fest. I was seven or eight, and I remember having 20 can coolers around my neck because all the grown-ups were peeing. I’ve been going to Jazz Fest since I was in the womb; it’s almost a spiritual pilgrimage. The festival is not for everyone: it’s hot as fuck – like, so hot. But it’s the best music in the world.

I lived in New Orleans until I was 17, then moved to New York, then LA. I come back all the time – for Mardi Gras, for Jazz Fest, for the New Orleans Book Festival. I’ll often stay at Hotel Peter and Paul in a neighbourhood I love called Marigny. From there we ride our bikes to the festival, but you can also ride to Parkway Bakery & Tavern, a famous po’boy place near the bayou. Having a bike is the best way to get around, although I would never ride here at night. Everyone is drunk… not necessarily me, but probably me – and definitely everybody else.

Jazz Fest is spread over two weekends in late April and early May, and is held at the Fair Grounds Race Course. During the festival, I have no self-control – something happens, I’m possessed. There’s a blues tent, a jazz tent and a gospel tent, among others. We spend most of our day at Congo Square Stage, where lots of the Black artists – Erykah Badu, Ludacris, Earth, Wind & Fire – play. The main stage is usually where pop and rock acts perform – last year it was The Rolling Stones – and I’ve also seen the Dave Matthews Band there; they’re playing again this year.

There’s zero hustle or grind culture in New Orleans, and without that, the city has its own identity outside of America’s intense, capitalistic pace. It was built for enjoying the day. You don’t want to go anywhere too quickly because there’s music in the streets and, as you’re moving through it, you might see a balcony with a beautiful iron design and flowers hanging over it. Those kinds of sensory elements demand you slow down and enjoy it.

There’s zero hustle or grind culture in this city, so it has its own identity

We’re especially known for a non-fussy dining experience; you’re not going to have foam coming to the table here. But whether you’re having a beautiful seafood dinner at Mosquito Supper Club or oysters at Pêche, it’s a truly creative experience. The city does amazing French food – go to La Crêpe Nanou or Café Degas, our stomping grounds during Jazz Fest. Then there are all the traditional Creole restaurants like Brennan’s, Dooky Chase’s and Brigtsen’s. New Orleans is one of the only places in America that has things that are truly indigenous to it. Hot dogs and pizzas are Eurocentric things that were brought over, but if you’re having gumbo, that comes from America. And when you listen to jazz or blues, those are indigenous music forms that were born in New Orleans.

The streetcar runs through most of the city: you can get off at the Garden District to look around, or Saint Charles Avenue to walk down Magazine Street. There you’ll find beautiful design and vintage stores like Shop Lekha and Blue Dream. Everything seems cool and cheap – kind of youthful and more modern than the French Quarter. You might find a Pilates class. If you’re in New Orleans for more than four days, you’ll probably want to find a green juice or a vegetable or something, so it’s nice to know where the young people are.

There’s so much charm to New Orleans. It has some of the most beautiful trees and landscapes, and all these quaint neighbourhoods and Caribbean influences. Then there are the old houses that have been turned into little restaurants or dance clubs – juke joint, old shack kind of things. There’s a page in my latest book, May You Love and Be Loved, that says: “May you feel rhythm deep in your soul. May song lyrics make you laugh and cry. May there be nights you stay out too late because the music was too good to go home early.” That’s my New Orleans page.

May You Love and Be Loved: Wishes for Your Life by Cleo Wade is published by Feiwel & Friends at $18.99